What the Paper Say:

THE GOOD FOOD GUIDE 2004

Cooking 6

According to one couple, this is ‘our favourite restaurant, for its welcome, wonderful food, the experience and the view’. Built in late Victorian times, not far from the monarch’s Scottish home at Balmoral, it sports gables, turrets, and an elegant conservatory dining room where the food exhibits a clear focus and sense of simplicity despite its accomplished workmanship. Among the ‘beautifully plated’ dishes are exceptionally fine hand-dived Loch Fyne scallops, just seared and served with black pudding, a dish that has appeared on the newly introduced five-course taster menu (along with pan-fried foie gras, saddle of roe deer, chocolate fondant, and cheese). Other shellfish options might run to a ravioli of langoustine and crab, while red-blooded Highland meats have included venison fillet (‘never tasted any better’), and beef fillet with braised oxtail and tarragon sauce. Among desserts might be classic lemon tart, white chocolate mousse, or fresh berries with a champagne sabayon and mascarpone ice-cream.

Great efforts are made on the wine list to present the affordable faces of Bordeaux and Burgundy, with astute choices like Ghislaine Barthod’s Bourgogne Rouge (£22.30). The rest of France, especially the Loire is good, Italy is quite grand, Spain modern and the New World solid. Five wines are £4.50 by the glass.